BATTLE STATIONS
A tutorial for Silent Hunter: the World War II Pacific submarine warfare simulation
© Valor at Sea.com

THE CHRISTMAS TREE

Aboard a US submarine, a crewman would be assigned to monitor the boat's condition board, which reported the status of the sub's ballast tanks, valves and hatches. Commonly referred to as the "Christmas tree", the board contained red and green lights indicating which valves or manifolds were opened or closed. This is the station where the hydraulic actuators for the main ballast tanks were operated, controlling the boats diving and surfacing  function. Silent Hunter takes some creative liberty with the Christmas Tree, converting its function into a "Damage Control" or status board. Hitting the F8 key will take you to that screen (Hit the F8 key a second time and you are taken to the torpedo room). It is wise to keep a close eye on this board whenever you are being depth charged. It will indicate the current condition of your sub, specifically noting any compartments or equipment damaged. By moving your cursor and clicking on a compartment that has been highlighted (damaged), information as to the extent of the problem and the repair time will be stated. Flooded compartments will be shown by, believe it or not, a graphic of rising water. While it may not be overly realistic, a quick check of the repair time will tell you how serious the flooding is. Heavy flooding may not allow the pumps to keep up, and then you have a problem. You certainly don't want to dive and compound the issue, but in the meantime, you're getting hammered by DC's from some pesky destroyer. Flooding in a battery compartment could lead to chlorine gas being detected at which time your only alternative may be to surface. Some damage is repairable while submerged. More extensive damage may only be able to be repaired on the surface (eg. hydrophones) or not at all while on the current patrol (like a rammed periscope). Pressure hull trouble is never 100% repairable. You may stop the flooding, but the hull's strength integrity has been compromised.

DECK GUNS

Your submarine is equipped with at least one 4 or 5 inch deck gun. Narwhal and Tench class boats have two. Historically, these weapons were used to polish off the wounded victim of an attack in order to conserve torpedoes. For the most part, it is a good idea to follow suit and keep this limited source of fire power reserved for delivering the coup d' grace to a crippled ship. Of course, take advantage of the opportunity for some target practice on a sampan (they might warn the IJN of our presence in the area) but as a general rule do not consider it as a primary weapon of choice against escorts, warships or armed merchants. Odds are we'll lose every time. 

The deck gun, like the TDC can be utilized in either the auto or manual mode. In auto, you flip the switch to that setting and your AI trained crew locks, loads and fires. Setting your selection to manual requires a little bit more skill, but it is well worth the effort to give it a shot (no pun intended). Your gun will only have a 350º degree turning radius (this prevents you from shooting up your conning tower) so position your sub at the optimum angle. Setting up your target is a pretty simple affair. Come to at least within 1500 to 2000 yds, line up the target in the cross hairs, mark and let her fly (you can click on the button or hit the F key to fire). Use your initial shot as a "ranging" shot. If you don't get a hit on the first round, determine whether your are overshooting or undershooting. Adjust your trajectory and fire another round. Keep making adjustments until you score a direct hit. Depending on the size of the vessel you are trying to finish off, you can expend quite a bit of ammo so be sure that you carefully consider the choice of using your deck gun or sending the final blow via a fish. 

Accuracy with the deck gun is achieved fairly easily when the seas are glass smooth and your target is an unarmed merchant. It is quite another story in rough water and/or against a crippled ship that can bite back. In rough seas you'll need to time your shot according to the crest of the waves and the rocking of the boat. Fire at the lowest ebb of the wave and your shot could land well before your target. Shooting when your too high on the wave may cause the shot to go sailing too far overhead, so it may take a few ranging rounds until you figure out the correct timing. Keep in mind too, that your target is rocking and rolling to the seas so it might take a while and a bunch of ammo to finish her off. Be especially careful when shooting at an escort, warship or armed merchant. Crippled or not, until she's sunk she can still fight back. 

AA GUNS

If you are running along the surface and were unable to dive quickly enough to avoid an attack by enemy aircraft, you may choose to duke it out with them using your Anti Aircraft guns (AA Guns).  Hit the "M" key which takes you to the 1MC menu and select "Man the AA Guns".  The computer AI controls the actual firing of the weapon and the more experienced your crew is, the better are your chances of surviving a strafing/dive bombing run by enemy planes.  If you manage to hit a hostile aircraft and you happen to be on the bridge at the time, you'll see the graphics display of the attacking plane as it spins and sputters before it crashes into the sea.

1MC MENU

The 1MC system in a sub was used for boat wide communications. In Silent Hunter it offers some interesting options. To access the 1MC menu, hit the "m" (lower case) key or click on the speaker icon in the lower right hand corner of your control room screen. The pop up menu contains: Abandon ship, Man the Deck Gun, Man the AA Guns, Rig for Red / Secure from Red, Rig for Silent Running / Secure from Silent Running, Jettison Debris, Rescue Pilot. I'll briefly cover those areas not mentioned elsewhere on this site.

ABANDON SHIP 

Okay, you're on the losing end of a long depth charging encounter with an enemy destroyer and you have no hope of evading. A submerged escape seems impossible and chlorine gas has been detected - you absolutely must surface. The problem is that those escorts are right above you. If your diesels are still working you might try to make a run for it. You know that if you blow your ballasts and surface they're going to shell you for all they're worth. Survival appears hopeless . . . unless you abandon ship. You'll be captured and probably be sent to one of the infamous Japanese POW camps. Click on the ABANDON SHIP button and take your chances.

If your boat is in dire straits and it's sinking  is inevitable (or you're hopelessly stuck after having run aground) but you are fortunate enough to be out of harms way, abandoning ship is not necessarily a bad idea. Hopefully you'll be rescued by friendlies and be given a new sub to command. It's similar to ABORT, except you retain any sinkings recorded to your credit while on the patrol.

NOTE: Pass out the Momsen lungs - you need to be at a depth of 180 feet or less to abandon ship. 

Rig/Secure for/from RED

Submarines employed a "RED" lighting system in the control room and conning tower to allow for better night vision. Often, crew members on watch would wear red colored goggles when moving through areas of the boat not covered by red lighting. The red lights (or goggles) would allow their eyes to adjust to the night's darkness quicker when on watch, thus giving them a considerable advantage. It's use is limited obviously in Silent Hunter . . . but it adds a nice touch of authenticity. It might reduce the possibility of your periscope being spotted by the enemy at night if you were using only white lights.

RIG/SECURE FOR/FROM SILENT RUNNING 

There may be the need for your submarine to employ a tactic of pure stealth - Silent Running. Whether you are trying to evade detection from attacking escorts or penetrating a harbor for a photo recon mission, using your ability to go "silent" is a great tactical advantage. By selecting this option, your speed is reduced to 1/3 and all unnecessary movements and extraneous functions cease - including any required repairs and torpedo reloads.

JETTISON DEBRIS

Just about every submarine movie ever made includes a scene where the boat was able to effect an escape from certain destruction at the hands of a relentless attacker by loading their torpedo tubes with all sorts of junk and sending it towards the surface. Throw in a good oil slick for an added touch and sure enough, the depth charging ends and the attacker heads off, satisfied that he has sent another submarine to the bottom. The ability to fool an attacker by jettisoning debris in Silent Hunter has met with mixed results. Some skippers report great success using this tactic others avoid it like the plague. It depends on who you talk to I guess. The deeper your depth the better are your chances that it might work. . . just be careful not to over do it. 

NOTE: For information about Life Guard missions (Pilot Rescue) click here.

TORPEDOES

Depending on the time of the war you are engaged, your boat will be outfitted with any one of three types of torpedoes (and quite possibly a combination). At the outset of hostilities in December of '41, the steam powered Mark 10 torpedo was standard ordnance in the S-Boats. Carrying a warhead containing 497 pounds of T.N.T. it was later converted to carry 485 pounds of Torpex and fitted with the Mk 3 contact exploder. The Mk 10 had a range of 3500 yds and a maximum speed of 36 knts. Like the MK 14 which was the loadout for the fleet boats, the MK 10 experienced depth control problems as well, however these were identified by January of 1942 and corrected.

The larger fleet boats could accommodate a longer torpedo which would describe the Mark 14. Having been considered the "latest high technology" at the time, the steam powered MK 14 had a range of 4500 yds at a speed of 46 knts. One advantage of the Mk 14 was that its' speed was adjustable. By lowering the speed control, the Mk 14 was capable of traveling 9000 yds at 31.5 knts. This fact is modeled in Silent Hunter and we have the ability to set the desired speed. The adjustment dial is found on the TDC screen. Simply turn the control to either the fast or slow setting, depending upon your need.  For most attacks, the setting of choice would be 4500 yds. For long range shots at a stationary target (eg: when targeting anchored ships in port) choose the slower setting. Nick Danger, who has been a frequent contributor to many of the Silent Hunter forums, has mentioned an additional use:  "You may encounter an enemy convoy technique similar to that of the Allies in the Atlantic, where you have is a series of ships very tightly bunched and difficult to approach. A solution is to fire one or two torpedoes, set at low speed and at long range into the heart of this gaggle of ships. You might get lucky and hit something or get the convoy to change direction.  This is about the closest you can get to simulating the German FAT torpedoes which were fired into Allied convoys, where they would home in circles until they picked up some propeller noises and would home in." 

The Mk 14 was fitted with 507 pounds of T.N.T. and later converted to carry a payload of 688 pounds of Torpex. The MK 6 exploder was a part of the package which was designed to run under a target's keel and be detonated by the magnetic field which was generated by the helpless vessel, thus increasing the potential target area. Unfortunately, the MK 6 was defective for various reasons and this is all too well modeled in SH. You will find yourself in an attack mode against an unescorted convoy of merchants, only to find out that many of your shots are either duds, premature detonations or target underruns (The historical implications during the war are covered in more detail in the Sub War section of this site). You will see that as the war progresses, improvements are made to the reliability of the Mk 14. Eventually, as the the magnetic detonator is eliminated and the contact exploder is historically replaced, the Mk 14 becomes a very effective weapon.

The MK 18 was modeled after German torpedoes, a sample of which was captured in 1942. The main benefit to the MK 18 was that it employed electric propulsion and did not leave the tell tale wake of the steam torpedoes. While an improvement over the MK 14 in aiding in maintaining stealth during an attack, they were not without their shortcomings. Slower speeds and reduced range (4000 yds at 27 knts) the MK 18 also tended to be affected by cold water temperatures. Defective stabilizing fins also often accounted for misses. 

Firing your torpedoes is easy enough. Once you've developed an acceptable solution, you can either click on the red torpedo tube button located on the TDC screens or use the hot keys of Alt 1 thru 10. Quickly clicking to your CHART screen will allow you to track the path of the Mk 10 and Mk 14 torpedoes. I have found that body language has no effect of the torpedo track. No matter how hard you try, squirming, leaning and waving at the fired ordnance will not change its' course : ) Torpedo reload times depend on the experience level of your crew. Green crews are notorious for taking what seems like an eternity to reload. 

For more information about WW II torpedo specifications check out this highly informative and detailed website.

COMMANDING THE HELM

Being able to control the movement of your submarine is obviously a critical skill needed in order to be able to negotiate a successful attack. Fortunately it is a fairly simple endeavor. Hitting the F7 key takes you to the gauges screen where the engine-room telegraph, compass, manual helm, depth to keel gauge and speed gauge are located. Also found on this screen are the compressed air, flooding, fuel, battery charge status, oxygen level and (if you select the option) fathometer gauges. 

DRIVING YOUR SUB

There are a several of ways to get your sub headed in the direction you want. The first way is by using the compass on the gauges screen. Left click on any compass bearing and a red line from the center of the compass will extend outward to the selected mark on the gauge. The white compass needle will immediately begin to turn in the direction you've indicated as your boat begins to travel along the heading you've ordered. You can alter your course at any time by left clicking on the manual helm, which is the rectangular box positioned directly under the engine room telegraph. The manual helm controls the degree which your right or left rudder will turn in response to your orders. Clicking on "35" will allow for a right or left "full" rudder and the result will be a tighter turn. This is very useful when in close quarter combat and you need to make a radical course change. The same steering effect can be achieved by using the left and right arrow key shortcuts. Each time you press a key, your sub's rudder will turn 5°. You can always return to a previously set course by clicking on the "resume" button on the compass.

An easy way to set a course is to hit the F5 key and plot your waypoints on the chart. Clicking on the "Way Point Selection" button allows you set predetermined course changes by left clicking on any part of the chart. Your boat will follow this route until you order a manual course change. A quick check of your compass will show the heading of your sub. Using this tool is especially useful when patrolling. You can set a straight line or zig zag patrol pattern much easier and more accurately then ordering a manual course change. It is also particularly useful when navigating narrow waterways. Zooming in on the chart screen and setting way points through the channel will prevent you from running aground while in transit. 

SPEED

The speed at which your submarine operates will depend on several factors. 

Your submarine is propelled two separate systems: One or more mechanical diesel engines for surface running and an electro mechanical drive system powered by battery when submerged. The amount of fuel or battery charge consumed is directly related to the speed at which you boat is operating, so resource conservation for both operating systems is critical. The important relationship to keep in mind is that the faster you are running the quicker you'll expend your fuel/battery supply. It might seem to be a minor detail however poorly executed speed control could result in disastrous consequences, particularly if you are attempting to evade an extended ASW counterattack and your battery charge is nearing a critical low. The only way to recharge your batteries is by running on the surface at 2/3 or less. Here your diesel engines are also driving the generator which is adding new life to your drained batteries. 

WW II submarines were very similar to sharks in that they required a constant forward (or reverse) movement while submerged in order to maintain their trim. By flooding the ballast tanks, the submarine's hull displacement becomes less then that required to keep it afloat, so the boat begins to "sink". This sinking was controlled by the amount of water and compressed air the diving officer maintained in the ballast tanks. Once you have reduced the buoyancy of the sub (meaning the weight of the vessel has over come the displacement of water) you have in effect a "rock", which unless it has a constant lateral motion, will sink to the bottom. Submarines adhere to this axiom, and as such need to be moving at all times during negative buoyancy. In Silent Hunter however this is not exactly true. While not realistic, you can actually come to a dead stop while submerged and maintain a constant depth.

It is important to frequently monitor your battery charge gauge whenever submerged, especially if you are involved with an extended evasion strategy. Should you completely drain your battery stores you'll stop dead in the water and you become a sitting duck for any destroyer pinging in your area. In this case, your only alternative may be to "blow the ballasts" (hit the "b" key) which will rush compressed air into the ballast tanks, purging all the water and instilling positive buoyancy. This will, hopefully, shoot you to the surface like a Trident missile (blowing the main ballast tanks can also help you to extract yourself in the event should ever run aground however it leaves you with few options on the surface because it takes some time to regenerate the compressed air). Once on the surface your diesel engines will kick in and begin to recharge your batteries. Not bad, but if you've had to perform this maneuver during an ASW attack you'll have a serious surface fight on your hands . . . . .

Your surface speed is dependent upon the "sea state" or prevailing conditions. You will make much greater headway in calm, smooth surface conditions then you will on a rough sea. Take a quick look at your calendar by hitting Alt F10 and you'll be able to see what kind of sea state you are faced with. The table below lists the maximum available speed (in knots) for all of the boats modeled in Silent Hunter for SURFACE RUNNING in CALM SEAS:

Engine Room Telegraph and Helm Control Hot Keys

X
War Patrol

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